The tool operates as the final stage of SCIRT, in which fashion brands, technical partners and research institutes have worked together for three years to accelerate the transition to a circular fashion system. Bel&Bo and HNST participated in the project, and were among the first to try out the True Cost Calculator. "As a sector, we want to be more data-driven. The Calculator demonstrates that together we can work towards an ideal world, with increasing insights into the entire process - as well as areas for improvement," said Anaïs Claes, Sustainability Coordinator of Claes Retail Group, to which HNST belongs.

As Bel&Bo's CEO and Sustainability Coordinator respectively, Charlotte Delfosse and Lieselore Collier were closely involved in testing the True Cost Calculator. For them, the tool is crucial to "get a better view of what is happening in the background", says Lieselore. "You can calculate the cost to people and the environment, as well as the stage in which that cost is the most significant. By duplicating your calculation and adjusting some parameters, you can assess different production scenarios." In that way, you can find out the effect of selecting a different means of transport or packaging material, for example.

Charlotte: "Currently, we put existing items into the tool to see where we can improve, along with deploying it in the design phase. If we have to choose between material X or Y, we use the Calculator to make informed decisions." She stresses that anyone can get started with the tool: "For example, a buyer who is hesitating between a t-shirt in 100% cotton made in country A or B can easily compare. If there is a small difference in purchase price and a big difference in true cost, the choice for the sustainable option is quickly made." 

"In the future, the Calculator will become a useful tool for moving towards ecodesign and taking further steps in certification," adds Lieselore. "As a brand, you may not always have the data required to insert into the True Cost Calculator. In fact, we requested additional data from our suppliers. That may take some time, but we wanted to do it thoroughly. In any case, it is not a wasted effort, considering that you collect data that is generally good to know." Bel&Bo also benefits from being a paying member of Fair Wear: "To fully exploit their tools, we also need data, so the information we gather for the Calculator is just as useful in this process."

Charlotte advises fashion designers, buyers, CSR managers and other decision-makers to integrate the tool step by step. "Start small and accessible. Filling in the Calculator for one product is really not that difficult. And if you are not in the possession of certain information, make an estimate. That way you already have something to start from; a first result to build on. It's a very positive tool."

When Anaïs Claes first heard about the True Cost Calculator, her interest was immediately awakened - and she was far from alone. "In the run-up to the test phase, I received plenty of emails from colleagues, across different brands. They were saying, ‘We can't miss this.’ The tool clearly triggered something; people showed so much interest." 

"You can use the tool proactively or retroactively," Anaïs explains. "At this moment, we are mainly using it for the latter scenario, for products that have already been determined altogether. That retrospective analysis provides interesting insights, and we look at how they compare with the insights we already had.’ In time, Claes Retail Group also wishes to use the Calculator proactively with HNST and its other brands. Anaïs stresses that this is a shared responsibility. "You can only achieve a good way of working if the CSR, design and purchasing teams join forces. Only then can we better understand the impact of the choices we make every day."

Anaïs advises fashion brands to start using the tool anyway. "It only works in your advantage," the Sustainability Coordinator believes. "If you already have a lot of data, the tool can enrich your insights. Not every brand has a CSR team, but the Calculator allows you to integrate the theme into functions that may not have the luxury of dealing with sustainability every day." In turn, brands concluding that they are not yet capturing enough data can eliminate their blind spots. Anaïs: "The tool creates awareness and arises more targeted questions. ‘How will we collect more information?’, ‘Do we need other systems or profiles?’, ‘How do we engage with suppliers?’ and ‘What can I expect from them?’."

Anaïs stresses that many of these questions require a balancing act. "For example, you have to think about what you share with customers and what not. Transparency is very important to us. Moreover, you need a relationship of trust with your suppliers. We should not take it for granted that we are entitled to all kinds of information. The thinking exercise better starts from an equal partnership with suppliers."

The Sustainability Coordinator is certainly looking forward to the future. For instance, she dreams of being able to upload data in bulk into the True Cost Calculator. "In addition, the tool is going to have to evolve with the market, because new possibilities are emerging constantly. Additional fields tailored accordingly will only enrich the Calculator." "Tools like the True Cost Calculator give insights into processes, into the impact on people and environment. We can only welcome that. It's interesting to be involved, and to see how we can make the tool even more relevant," Anaïs concludes.

Want to know even more about the True Cost Calculator? Then watch this webinar.

This project received support from the Horizon 2020 Programme under grant agreement n°101003906.